forts

Delhi Red Fort

The Construction
Built during the reign of Shah Jahan, the Lal Qila (or Red Fort) has been a mute witness to innumerable conspiracies, scandals, battles..... Completed in a span of nine years, it cost about ten million rupees , with about half the sum going towards the building of palaces.

The fort is octagonal in shape, like most Islamic buildings in India. The north of the fort is connected to the smaller Salimgarh fort. The Red Fort is an intimidating structure. It measures 900m by 550m, with its rampart walls covering a perimeter of 2.41km. It towers at a height of 33.5m. On the outside, you can still see the moat that was originally connected with the Yamuna River.

The Major Gateways

Besides the Lahori Gate, the entry point is the Hathipol (elephant gate), where the king and his visitors would dismount from their elephants. The other major attractions of the Red Fort are the Mumtaz Mahal, the Rang Mahal, the Khas Mahal, the Diwan-i-Am, the Diwan-i-Khas, the Hamam and the Shah Burj.

Every year, on the 15th of August, the National Flag of India is hoisted at the Red Fort by the Prime Minister , celebrating India's independence..

Amber Fort Jaipur

The sprawling Amber Fort is a typical example of what the lives of our gallant Rajputs were like – militant, adventurous, temperamental and also self-indulgent. It is among the best hilltop forts in India. Within the stern exteriors that seem to grow out of the rugged hills are mighty gates, temples, huge ornate halls, palaces, pavilions, gardens and even a ramp to take you to the hilltop palace! and guess who climbs the ramp? Elephants. Yes, beautifully- caparisoned elephants go up and down carrying visitors to and fro. These well cladded elephants make a joyride to Amber fort and in turn makes your travel to Amber fort a fascinating experience. This some thing which you cannot afford to miss in any Rajasthan itinerary.

Just 11 kms from Jaipur, Amber fort is a splendid fort constructed in a scenic locale. Being a perfect blend of Hindu and Muslim architecture, Jaipur attracts travellers from around the globe. Built in 16 the century by Raja Man Singh, the fort stands as a proud reminder of the exotic building skills of the artisans of the yesteryears. This fort from yore days unfurls the legacies of the time when the august rulers imagined the unmatched craftmanship.


Fort Attractions

Old Amber Palace : The Old Palace lies at the base of the Jaigarh Fort. This area was the original Amber before Man Singh I came along and went on a building spree. The early 13th century palace here is not very interesting as compared to the grand Amber Fort-palace, yet you could do with a visit. This Old Palace can be reached from the Amber Palace too – there's a stone path leading from the Chand Pol to these ruins at the base of the hill. The road is currently being restored. Here lie the remains of ancient Amber which include temples and crumbling palaces and patches of walls. The cobbled streets and broken down havelis (mansions) give it the aura of a medieval town. But these mute remnants of a bygone golden era seem to speak volumes.

Diwan-i-Am or Hall of Public Audience :This is a delicate palace which you would come across on your travel to Amber fort. This forty pillared pavillion is perfect example of intricate craftmanship and was constructed by Mirza Raja Jai Singh. The pavilion worked as a place where Maharajahs used to recieve its general public and used to hear their pertaining problems. The southern area of this palace was kept clear so that the royal ladies could watch the proceedings of Diwan-I-Am from the Zenana house ( Women's quarters).

Shila Mata Temple : Entry into Shila Mata Temple is through Singh Pol. The temple is devoted to Shila Mata ( Goddess Kali), the goddess of victory and houses a black marble idol of the goddess which was brought here from Jessore by Raja Man Sigh in 1604. You would find nine images of Goddess Durga (strength) and ten forms of Goddess Saraswati ( knowledge) which are carved on the silver gates of the temple. The mandap of this temple is made up of white marble contrasting the colours of the idols.

Ganesh Pol & Suhaag Mandir : Ganesh Pol forms another attractions in Amber fort and is an imposing gateway which lies south of Diwan-i-am. The gateway has been painted beautifully and endorse typical Rajasthani motifs. From Ganesh Pol, you can move to beautiful garden or Charbagh, which is based on the Mughal patten of gardens.

Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience), Sukh Niwas, Jai Mandir & Jas Mandir : Diwan-i-Khas show cases a rich amalgam of Rajput and Mughal architecture. The architecture is showcased in the fascinating Diwan-i-khas, Sukh Niwas, Jai Mandir and Jas Mandir. Decorated with beautiful mirror work, Diwan -I - Khas has wonderful carvings on the walls and the ceilings. The major attractions of these halls are miniature murals made of coloured glasses which depicts Radha and Krishna.

Around The Palace

Jagatsiromani Temple : All around the place here are scattered bits and pieces of Amber's rich past. The old chhatris (cenotaphs), looking like domed pavilions, show some remains of paintings. Among the many temples near the Old Palace is the beautiful Jagatsiromani Temple dedicated to Lord Krishna. This shikhara (spired) temple was built by Man Singh in memory of his son Jagat Singh. It has some fine carvings and paintings and the black stone Krishna is said to have been worshipped by the saint-poetess Meera Bai of Chittor. It is also famous for its intricately carved marble gateway guarded by stone elephants.

Temple of Sanwalji : Across the road is the JainTemple of Sanwalji. Nearby are the old Temple of Narsinghji with its marble jhoola (swing), the Temple of Ambikeshwara and the Lakshmi Narayanji Temple. The latter has a Shiva lingam installed by Raja Kakil, the first Kachhawaha to rule from Amber. and according to some, Amber even gets its name from this temple. An ancient Sun Temple lies as an outcrop.

Panna Mian ki Baoli- Stepwell : One marvel of designing is the 17th century ornate step-well Panna Mian ki Baoli. Stepwells were like community centres in the past, and constructing them was considered an act of great generosity and benevolence. Panna Mian is one such water tank surrounded on three sides by criss-crossed steps. It also has octagonal corner kiosks and a double-storey verandah. The only mosque in the area is the old but picturesque Jami Masjid (1569), built by Bihar Mal in the honour of Akbar. After all the Mughal king would need some place to say his prayers if he went visiting his Rajput friends.

Gwalior Fort

Described as 'the pearl in the necklace of the castles of Hind' by the Mughal Emperor Babur, the Gwalior Fort was mightier than any other fort in the medieval ages.
Naturally every powerful ruler dreamt of possessing it.
It has fascinated historians and poets alike down the ages, and continues to do so. It also tickles one's curiosity because its origin is shrouded in mystery.

The Gwalior Fort has changed hands many times, from the Tomaras in the 8th century, to the Scindhias who were its masters when India became independent. and each of these dynasties adorned and embellished the fort.
One cannot help being impressed with the perfect blend of the Hindu and Muslim architecture that characterises the fort and finds its fullest expression in this brilliant monument.

Jaisalmer Fort - Resplendent in its Golden Hue
Who would have dreamt in such a vast sand oasis
A castle worthy of an ancient throne, such an art in carven work of stone


¤ Construction of the Fort
An apt description of the Jaisalmer fort, one of the finest in the country but one which looks rather incongruous given the desolation around it. Located bang in the middle of the Thar desert (literal meaning abode of the dead), it rises like a mirage from the sands, with its huge turrets pointing skywards. Built in 1156, Jaisalmer is the second oldest of Rajasthan’s major forts after Chittorgarh. Constructed by Raja Jaisal, who was searching for a new capital as the earlier one Lodurva was too vulnerable to invasions, he built the fort and the city surrounding it, thus fulfilling Lord Krishna's prophecy in the Mahabharata


Lon a Hilltop

Mounted atop Trikuta, the almost triangular triple-peaked hill, the fort rises like a sunbeam from the desert, 250 feet tall, and is reinforced by an imposing crenellated sandstone wall 30 feet high. It has as many as 99 bastions, 92 of which were built between 1633 and 1647 to be used as gun platforms. The view of the 99 bastions of the yellow sandstone fort, the desert citadel of Raja Jaisal, is spectacular to behold. The fortifications have grown exponentially over the centuries, and wells within the confines still provide a regular source of water to the fort.

Palaces of the Maharawals
Also, in front of the Chauhata Square lie the palaces of the Maharawals. Leading up to them is a flight of marble steps topped by the Maharawal’s marble throne. Nearby lies the five-storeyed Tazia (metal) Tower, with ornate architecture and Bengali-style roofs. The five-tiered structure was constructed by Muslim craftsmen who worked on the building. The outer defences of the citadel are fortified by another high wall with a pathway running parallel to the first rampart. Beyond the entrance is the Ganesh Pol, leading up to the Rang Pol.

There was a time when everyone lived inside the fort itself, protected by its massive ramparts. As the population of Jaisalmer expanded, people started emigrating from within the fort’s precincts from about the 17th century. However, even today the fort is a hive of activity, and you’ll witness a cross-section of the populace living within it as you travel through its winding streets and alleys.

Installation of a unique device
The fort also has a peculiar gadget hoisted on top of its ramparts. Since Met departments were in short supply in those days, this was used to forecast the weather. Every year in April a flag would be placed in its centre and, based on the direction in which it blew, the weather for the entire year was forecast. If it blew northwards it indicated famine, and if it went westwards Ho the citizenry could rest assured that a fine monsoon was in the offing. May seem a bit primitive today but the system was probably just as accurate or inaccurate as the Met office nowadays.

Jaisalmer Fort -- A Marvel Built in Sandstone
Just as the Taj in Agra is worth visiting on a full moon night, Jaisalmer fort by nightfall is a sight to behold, it has all the romance and suspense of a Hitchcockian mystery. You half expect an invading army to march up to the castle, over its enormous paved flagstones, while those defending the fort shoot missiles at them from the ramparts. Suffice to say the Jaisalmer fort is one of the marvels of Rajasthani architecture, particularly of the stone-carver’s

Jaisalmer Havelis

Salim Singh ki Haveli
Salim Singh ki Haveli: The haveli or mansion was initially occupied by the influential Mehta family of Jaisalmer. It was built around 1815, possibly on the remains of an earlier building of the late 17th century. The building was commissioned by the then Prime Minister of Jaisalmer, Salim Singh, a man with a reputation for Machiavellian cunning. His father Diwan Swaroop Singh, also Prime Minister of Jaisalmer in his time, was murdered as a result of a palace intrigue when the young Salim was a mere dozen years old. Salim took it upon himself to avenge his father’s death. As soon as he came of age, Salim eliminated all of Jaisalmer’s courtiers, princes and hangers-on with such dexterity that he was appointed premier by Maharawal Mool Raj.

Salim built his eight storeyed pleasure palace and lived in it with his seven wives and two concubines. It is a magnificent monument with every structure carved with elaborate detailing. He demanded the best and got it; anything that did not please him was summarily rejected. The mansion boasts of 38 balconies, each with a different design. As you enter you are confronted by an imposing stone elephant, while the upper storeys of the building jut out proudly like a ship’s prow, which is why the haveli is also called the Jahazmahal or Ship’s Palace. The monument as a whole has the appearance of a great ocean liner, with a narrow base which widens at the top. It has a beautifully arched roof, topped with blue cupolas, and brackets in the form of peacocks.

As Salim Singh’s power grew so did his ambition, and he reckoned it was time he usurped the power of the maharwals themselves. He came up with a scheme to knock off the top two floors of the haveli and build a gateway from his house right upto the maharawal’s palace, but this proposal was nipped in the bud by the monarch himself. This incident marked an about-turn in his political fortunes for soon he was killed in one of the numerous court conspiracies he himself had encouraged for long. The Salim Singh saga was a classic illustration of the old maxim that ultimately ‘the schemer always falls into the pit which he digs for another’.

Nathmal's Haveli
The haveli (mansion) was built circa 1885 for Diwan Mohata Nathmal, then Prime Minister of Jaisalmer. Designed by two Muslim brothers Hathi and Lulu, the haveli was ordered for Nathmal by the then maharawal Beri Sal. The sibling-architects worked in an unusual manner; each carved out one-half of the building developed according to the same plan. However, when the building was completed, the two sides turned out to be very dissimilar to each other though the haveli remains unsurpassed in Jaisalmer in terms of the quality of the work. Like the Salim Singh’s haveli (mentioned above), the entrance to Nathmal’s haveli is zealously guarded by stone elephants; and the entire façade is embellished with a slew of detailing – horses, elephants, soldiers, flowers and birds. There are also carvings of trains and bicycles, gadgets of the then new age which the artisans themselves had never seen but carved out of hearsay

Timposing Interiors of Haveli
Another extraordinary part about its construction is that the main chamber is carved out of rock and the entire frontage of the first floor is carved out of one solitary boulder. The interiors of the havelis are decorated by beautiful miniatures. The workmanship of Jaisalmer’s havelis is an amalgam of both Rajput architecture as well as Islamic art that was imported via the traders’ caravan through the desert

Patwon-ki-Haveli

The five Patwa havelis were the first ones to crop up in Jaisalmer and are known locally as the Patwon-ki-haveli. The first was constructed circa 1805 by a merchant called Guman Chand Patwa and is the biggest and the most ostentatious. Patwa was a man of considerable means, and for his five sons he built the elaborate five-storeyed complex which reportedly took 50 years to finish. All five houses were constructed in the first 60 years of the 19th century. The havelis are also known as the ‘mansion of brocade merchants’ as the family ostensibly dealt in threads of gold and silver used in embroidering dresses. However, they reportedly made their fortune elsewhere; through opium trade and by moneylending.

The Decor of Patwa Haveli
The unsung heroes as far as the Patwa mansions are concerned are the unnamed stone carvers who wielded the chisel with as much skill as a surgeon handles a scalpel. Every square inch of space has been carved exquisitely, with jali (latticed) friezes providing ventilation to the interiors as well as offering privacy to the women to look out without exposing themselves to Peeping Toms. The havelis are built in yellow sandstone with a different design on every window and arch. As you enter the haveli through its magnificent arched gateway, you come across its delicately carved yellow-brown frontage with as many as 60 balconies overlooking it. Another prominent haveli of Jaisalmer is the Nokhatmal haveli, which unlike the other mansions is a fairly recent addition to the city having been constructed only a few years ago.

Jaigarh Fort

The Great Legends
Whenever Man Singh I (late 16th century) or his successors warred and won gold, silver, jewels and other booty, they hoarded it in the Jaigarh Fort. and they had the loyal Minas to fiercely guard their haul. (In fact, legends tell us that the Minas were such strict guards that they let each new Kachhawaha king to enter only once and pick one single piece for himself from the dazzling pile!) Anyway, all this treasure paid first for building Amber, then Jaipur and for centuries of lavish living. Indian Government officials tried to retrieve whatever was left; they dug the place in 1976 but found nothing. In fact they even drained the three arched water tanks (in a courtyard on the way to the northern end of the fort) in the hope of finding the fortune there. Some say that everything was used up in building Jaipur while others claim that it is still there somewhere.

The dictum of the ancient Hindu scriptures, the Puranas, 'a fort is the strength of a king', must have loomed large in the minds of the Rajputs while building the Jaigarh Fort. The ambitious Jai Singh II then expanded, remodelled and renamed it in 1726. and since this fort never fell in the hands of enemies, it stands almost intact to this day.

The Location of The Fort
Jaigarh or the 'Fort of Victory' is perched on Chilh ka Tola (Hill of Eagles), 400 feet above the Amber Fort. The walls of the fort are spread over three kilometers. Once you enter through the massive south facing Doongar Darwaza, you'll instantly get a tangible feel of Rajput romanticism. and if you're lucky, Thakur Pratap Singh, a handsome Rajput with a fine moustache will be around to tell you stories of Jaigarh's illustrious past. The other entrance to the fort is through the Awani Darwaza in the east.

Main Attractions of The Fort

The Huge Cannon
Jaigarh Fort is a remarkable feat of military architecture. After you enter, head straight for the gigantic cannon Jaivan perched on top of a tower. Weighing 50 tons with an 8m barrel and a trajectory of about 20km, it is said to be the world's largest cannon on wheels. Such was its might that it took four elephants to swivel it around on its axis. But surprisingly (and thankfully!) it was never used. Despite its awesome firepower, it has a delicate scrollwork of birds, foliage and a roaring elephant at its mouth. Jaivan was test-fired once by Jai Singh in 1720 when the cannon ball landed at Chaksu about 38km away! and the impact of it was so enormous that a lake formed at the spot and many houses collapsed in Jaipur. The cannoneer died immediately after the firing, before he could even jump into water. (It is mandatory for the cannoneer to jump into water to avoid the massive impact, and so there's always a water tank beside the cannon.) No wonder enemies didn't ever set their eyes on Jaigarh. There's even a notice here which proudly says, "because of the strong defence system, management and the foresightedness of the rulers, the enemy never dared to enter the fort."

Vijay Garh
Walk through a great arch into the courtyard, Jaleb Chowk. But the most important part of the fort is perhaps Vijay Garh, the fort's armoury. Apart from the huge collection of swords and small arms including time bombs, there's an interesting treasury lock with five keys and big wine and oil jars. The 1681 map of Amber kept here is worth a look. If the show of so much armoury awakens the fighter in you, try your hands at the mini cannon which makes a pretty big bang.


The Jaigarh Cannon Foundry

The Jaigarh cannon foundry, built by Bhagwan Das in the 16th century, is one of the few surviving medieval foundries in the world. It has a furnace, lathe, tools and a collection of cannons. It was Bhagwan's adopted son, Man Singh I, who brought the secret of gunpowder from Kabul in 1584 where the latter was the commander-in-chief of Akbar's army. Soon cannons began to be made in Jaigarh, much to the displeasure of the Mughals who kept the secret to themselves ever since they used it to fight the Lodis and Rajputs in 1526 (check History of Delhi for more). There's a point called Damdama (meaning 'continuous firing'), where there used to be a battery of ten cannons positioned to check any approaching army. This faces the Delhi Road. This led some to believe that Man Singh was secretly preparing for a showdown with his Mughal allies.

Seven Storeyed- Diya Burj
The highest point in Jaigarh is the seven-storeyed Diya Burj, the turret of lamps from where you get a panoramic view of the city of Jaipur. Also interesting is the water supply and storage system of the fort, a real marvel of planning. Sagar Talav, with octagonal bastions and huge dams, is one of the fort's grand reservoirs. The scarcity of water has always exercised the ingenuity of the Rajasthanis, also accounting for the existence of the several baoris or baolis (stepwells) in the state. There are some temples within the fort. The 10th century Shri Ram Hari Har Temple houses images of three gods – Rama, Vishnu and Shiva. It has an interesting doorway. Nearby is the 12th century Kal Bhairava Temple

Museums
The museum of artefacts tells the story of the Jaigarh Fort and its vast well-protected treasury. There is an interesting collection of paintings, photographs and coins, and other things like a balance for measuring explosives and several containers including a 16^th century coin container. Don't miss the royal kitchen and dining hall; after all food and hospitality were also very much a part of Rajput agenda.


The Palace Complex
The palace complex, built by various kings over a period of two centuries, has the usual structure beginning with the Diwan-i-Aam (Hall of Public Audience). But it goes a step ahead of the Amber Fort in terms of defense; it has a Khilbat Niwas (Commanders' Meeting Hall) in place of the Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience). There's also the open pillared hall, Subhat Niwas. But these are insignificant structures as compare to the ones in Amber Fort. This part of the fort is full of secret back passages for royal escape in times of emergency. The luxury suites are very much there – the breezy Aram Mandir (Rest House) and the 16th century Vilas Mandir (Pleasure House). The former has a lovely garden attached to it. It was in the charming courtyard of the latter that the royal ladies had their little parties, janani majlis. The pavilions surrounding the courtyard, with a maze of passages, offer excellent views of Amber.

The Lakshmi Vilas Palace
The Lakshmi Vilas Palace is a beautiful experience, with some lovely frescoes in blue and the remains of an old Mughal garden. It also has a little 'theater' hall where the rajas had their share of entertainment – dance, music recitals and puppet shows. Do stop by at this Puppet Theatre which has been revived by some locals who hold charming shows. This old tradition of puppetry continues to be a popular folk entertainment in Rajasthan today, and tourists take a huge delight in watching such shows.

Visiting Hours : 0930-1645
Entry Fee : Rs 15, for students Rs 10

Rajasthan Shopping Attrctions Complex
There's a lot to see and do in this handicraft centre on Jagat Shiromani Temple Road. You can see demonstrations of the famous Rajasthan block printing, textiles which so many people, especially foreign tourists, are crazy about. Craftspersons churn up some exotic designs with wooden blocks and natural colours. The other centres of block printing in Rajasthan are Barmer, Sanganer, Bagru and others. See Arts & Crafts of Rajasthan for more on block printing. Shops at the complex also sell gems, jewellery, textiles, antiques and other handicrafts. By antiques one means artefacts upto 90 years old. So take home a piece of Rajasthan, though the prices may be slightly high.

Excursion To Amber Fort

For an excursion to Amber, take a bus from the Hawa Mahal in Jaipur. There's one leaving every half an hour (Rs 3). Auto-rickshaws charge Rs 50. There are buses from the Jaipur Railway Station too.

jag Niwas (Lake Palace)

The Construction of The Palace
For over a hundred years Jag Mandir has served as the main pleasure palace of the Sisodia rulers. During the rule of Maharana Sangram Singh II (1716-34) his son Jagat Singh II had asked permission for a sojourn at Jag Mandir but for reasons best known to the father the young prince was refused. On the other hand the adjacent island was given up for the prince’s personal use. Pavilions of the palace were constructed before 1734 and after his coronation Gadi Rana Jagat Singh II (1734-1751) further expanded the marble water palace. Jagat Singh II named the palace, Jag Niwas, also known as the Lake Palace, after himself. The palace faces east, allowing its inhabitants to pray to the Sun god at the crack of dawn.

The Extension of Many Palace
Jagat Singh’s period saw the extension of the palace through the Bara Mahal, Khush Mahal, Phool Mahal, Dhola Mahal, Dilaram Palace and the Canal The Khush Mahal (Palace of Happiness) is also known as the Maharani suite since the Queens were occupying it, is one of the sought after rooms in the palace. It has a perfect Moorish setting – coloured glasswork framing the windows, marble flooring, the bed with its luxurious bedding and offers the most enchanting way to watch the sun set over the quiescent waters of the lake. In the heart of the room is an antique jhoola (swing). The other palaces include Udai Prakash with a huge terrace and Kamal Mahal with exquisite glass inlay in designs of lotus and leaf patterns. Col. Tod when writing about his life in the palace says: "Here they listened to the tale of the bard and slept off their noonday opiate amidst the cool breezes of the lake, wafting delicious odours from myriads of lotus flowers which covered the surface of the waters."

Served As A Refuge Place for British Families
During the famous Indian Sepoy Mutiny in 1857 several European families fled from Nimach and used the island as an asylum, offered to them by Maharana Swaroop Singh. In order to protect his guests the Rana destroyed all the town’s boats so that the rebels could not reach the island.

The Inlay Work
The upper room of the palace is a perfect circle and is about 21 feet in diameter. Ferguson, the noted antiquarian, is of the opinion, that it was the prettiest room that he had ever seen or known in India. "Its floor is inlaid with black and white marbles, the walls are ornamented with nichés and decorated with arabesques of different coloured stones in the same style as the Taj at Agra, though the patterns are Hindu and dome is exquisitely beautiful in form. A room built of 12 enormous slabs of marble, Shah Jahan’s throne sculptured from a single block of serpentine and the little mosque dedicated to Kapuria Baba, a Muhammedan Saint, are other objects of interest on the island."

The Breathtaking Beauty of Palace
About Jag Niwas it has been said that "the low yet extensive island fringed with marble piazzas enclosing luxuriant orange-gardens interspersed with sombre cypresses; towering palms and gilded minarets shooting up here and there; the whole resting upon background of the dark and lofty Aravallis, forms a scene unsurpassed by any other in India." Ferguson has written about these two spots that "the only objects in Europe to be compared with them are the Baromean islands in the Lago Maggiore but I need scarcely say their Indian rivals lose nothing by comparison. They are as superior to them as Duomo at Milan is to Buckingham Palace. Indeed I know of nothing that will bear comparison with them anywhere."

The Fading glory of The Place
By the latter half of the 19th century time and weather took their toll on the extraordinary water palaces of Udaipur. Pierre Loti, a French writer, described Jag Niwas as "slowly mouldering in the damp emanations of the lake." About the same time two colonial bicyclists, William Hunter Workman and his wife Fanny, were distressed by the ‘cheap and tasteless style’ of the interiors of the water palaces with "an assortment of infirm European furniture, wooden clocks, coloured glass ornaments, and children’s toys, all of which seems to the visitor quite out of place, where he would naturally expect a dignified display of Eastern splendour."

The reign of Bhopal Singh (1930-55) saw the addition of another pavilion, Chandra Prakash, but otherwise the Jag Niwas remained unaltered, degrading, weak, and raring to fall but increasingly silent about it. Geoffrey Kendall, the noted theatre personality, described the palace during his visit in the 1950s as "totally deserted, the stillness broken only by the humming of clouds of mosquitoes." When Maharana Bhagwat Singh ascended the throne in 1955, Udaipur’s golden years were already on the decline. Their fierce sense of self-respect and code of honour had given them their dignity but at the cost of their fortunes. Other Rajput kingdoms had prospered through their relationships with either the Mughals or the British (or both), but the Sisodias were only dependent on their wealth. Even in the 1960s Udaipur had no industry or business as such, with the only one being that of sword making.

Palace Converted into A Luxury Hotel
Bhagwat Singh was wise enough to realise this and prepared himself for the future of his dynasty and kingdom. With this purpose in mind he decided to convert the Jag Niwas Palace into Udaipur’s first luxury hotel. Didi Contractor, an American artist, became a design consultant to this hotel project.

Didi’s accounts gives an insight to the life and responsibility of the new maharana of Udaipur: "I worked from 1961 to 1969 and what an adventure! His Highness, you know, was a real monarch – really like kings always were. So one had a sense of being one of the last people to be an artist for the king. It felt the way one imagines it was like working in the courts of the Renaissance. It was an experience of going back in time to an entirely different era, a different world. His Highness was actually working on a shoestring. He wasn’t in dire straits, mind you, but when he came to the throne he inherited big problems like what to do with the 300 dancing girls that belonged to his predecessor [Maharana Bhopal Singh]. He tried to offer them scholarships to become nurses but they didn’t want to move out of the palace so what could he do? He had to keep them. They were old crones by this time and on state occasions I remember they would come to sing and dance with their ghunghats [veils] down and occasionally one would lift hers to show a wizened old face underneath. and he had something like twelve state elephants. and he had all these properties which were deteriorating. The buildings on Jag Niwas were starting to fall down and basically the Lake Palace was turned into a hotel because it seemed the only viable way that it could be maintained … It was really a job of conservation."

Kipling had once stated that "allpalaces in India excepting dead ones are full of eyes," and Didi found it exactly so in case of Jag Niwas.

The Restoration Work Commenced
The palace was filled with peepholes, secret passages, and secret chambers. There was a room that could be entered only through a trap door at the top. The Lake Palace Hotel caught the fancy of several distinguished guests including Elizabeth II, Jacqueline Kennedy, the Shah of Iran and the King of Nepal.

The hotel provides an opportunity for guests to have an inimitable glimpse of the lifestyle that was once associated with the aristocracy. Major renovation and extension was done on the palace in 1970, which did little to debilitate it. Jag Niwas was more a garden with several pavilions, built mostly in the 18th century. However, recent additions on the island palace are modern in style. In 1971 the management of the hotel was taken over by the Taj Group of Hotels and they have made the water palace one of the most attractive Indian tourist sites with its fantastic amalgamation of courts, apartments and gardens.

Just behind the Lake Palace there is a small island, proud with its own palace called the Arsi Vilas. This one was built by one of the numerous maharanas of Udaipur to enjoy the sunset on the lake. It is also a sanctuary catering to a variety of birds, including tufted ducks, coots, egrets, terns, cormorants and kingfishers. The most interesting part is that the palace has a landing, which is often used as a helipad.

Ahhichatragarh Fort (Nagaur Fort)

Hadi Rani Mahal
Although the fort is in a fairly dilapidated state it does house some beautiful palaces. One of the most beautifully decorated palaces is the Hadi Rani Mahal which has intricately carved designs all over its walls and ceilings. It is further embellished by exquisite mural paintings mostly displaying Maharani Hadi Rani (one of the most well known maharanis of Nagaur) along with her retinue. It also has a particularly fascinating frescoed ceiling which is worth travelling miles to see.

Deepak Mahal

The other palace to look out for is the Deepak Mahal which is decorated with beautiful floral designs from wall to wall. In rain parched Nagaur the temple is like a breath of fresh air, and it is natural that the desert fiefdom, deprived of any greenery, painted pictures of beautiful flowers and shrubs. Deepak Mahal represents a fantasy for the people of Nagaur.


Bhakt Singh Palace
Also worth looking out for is the Bhakt Singh Palace although the history behind it is particularly gory. Bhakt Singh was the ruler of Nagaur in the first half of the 18th century. His brother Abhay Singh was the heir apparent to the throne of Jodhpur and was persuaded by the Mughals to become the ruler by murdering his own father. Abhay Singh assigned this task to his brother Bhakt, promising him Nagaur if he commited the foul deed. Bhakt willingly commited the patricide and became the ruler of Nagaur and built a splendid palace for himself inside the ancient fort.

Amar Singh Mahal (Palace)
The fort also houses the Amar Singh Mahal, which is decorated from floor to ceiling with intricately carved designs. Amar Singh was the ruler of Nagaur during the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan’s reign to avenge the death of a Mughal courtier called Salabat Khan. The palace is a fitting tribute to his memory. Although he was cremated on the banks of the Yamuna, his wives commited sati (self-immolation) in Nagaur itself, and their palm impressions can be found nearby.

Akbari Mahal
Nearby lies the Akbari Mahal, which was built to commemorate the recapture of Nagaur by the Mughals from the governor of Ajmer in 1556. The art and architecture of the palace clearly indicates a confluence of both Rajput and Mughal art. In fact, the Mughal style and influence can be seen in most of the airy palaces and pavilions.

Rani Mahal
Also to be found in the fort is the Rani Mahal and the Zenana Deori. The Rani Mahal was obviously the dwelling place of the wives of the rulers of Nagaur as was the Zenana Deori. The Zenana Deori has paintings on its ceilings rather similar to the Sistine Chapel in Rome. They must have had a local Michaelangelo in their midst in medieval Nagaur. Also in the women’s quarters is the Baradari, which is another residence where the royal ladies lived. It also contains a small swimming pool. In one of the palaces is also housed an ornate hammam or bath.

Magnificent Fort Gateways
As seen, the gateways to a fort in Rajasthan are no diminutive ones - as they were massive stone structures with reinforced doors to ward off elephants and even cannon shots. Mostly, there are notched parapets at the top of the gates from where archers could shoot at their tormentors.

The Nagaur Fort Had Three Main Gates
Sireh Pol :
The outermost gate has heavy wooden doors fitted with iron spikes to prevent elephant charge.
Beech Ka Pol :
This is the second gate of the impressive fort.
Kacheri Pol :
The last gate is known so because it housed the judiciary of Nagaur in ancient times.Fort

Temples

Ahhichatragarh also houses two temples, the Krishna Mandir and the Ganesh Mandir dedicated to the two gods respectively. The interior of the Krishna temple is laced with pictures – from very primitive sketches of cows and buffaloes (Krishna was a cowherd), to beautiful murals of Lord Krishna in the company of divine gopis (milkmaids). The Ganesh Mandir has a brick-red façade, which is in reasonably good shape, and the inner sanctum houses a marble statue of the elephant god.

Krishan Mandir
The Ahhichatragarh fort houses the Krishan Mandir, dedicated to Lord Krishna. The interiors of the Krishna temple are decorated with pictures - from very primitive sketches of cows and buffaloes to beautiful murals of Lord Krishna in the company of Gopis (milkmaids).

Mosques
The fortress houses the Shah Jahani Mosque, which was built by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan during the time when Nagaur was under Mughal control. In a decrepit state; the mosque is no Taj Mahal but an important historical monument nonetheless. It represents the time when the Mughals enjoyed uninterrupted power in Nagaur from the time Akbar conquered it in 1556 to when his grandson Shah Jahan voluntarily bestowed it to Amar Singh in 1638. A few kilometers away from the fort is the Akbari Masjid constructed by the Mughal emperor himself in the 16th century. The monument has stood the test of time with the interiors still quite well preserved although the façade is in a shabby condition. The inner part is lined with blue tiles and all the inscriptions inside are intact. The mosque serves a dual purpose as it is used as a madarsa (school) in the morning where local children assemble for their lessons. However, the main mosque in Nagaur as in virtually every town and city in India is the Jama Masjid. Located a short distance away from Ahhichatragarh fort the Masjid is an impressive monument, and has four huge minarets which are almost as high as a skyscraper. The monument has become a little worse for wear over the years. Jama is a corruption of Jumma, which means Friday and is the Muslim holy day. Therefore, Friday prayers are held in the main mosque across the country.

Shah Jahani Masjid
This masjid within the fortress was built by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan during the time when Nagaur was under the Mughal control.

In a frail state ; the mosque is no Taj Mahal but was definately an important historical monument. In a way, it represents the time when the Mughals enjoyed uninterruped power in Nagaur from the time Akbar conquered it in 1556 to when his grandson Shah Jahan voluntarily bestowed it to Amar Singh in 1638.

Chittorgarh Fort

The Colossal Walls
Standing on a rocky plateau on a 500 feet high hill, the 700 acre fort went through three sieges, and each time Chittor turned out the loser. But that did not mean that the fort was inferior to any other in Rajasthan. It was just that that the Rajputs had a habit of riding out to meet the enemy outside the safety of their walls instead of allowing the enemy to launch the first assault. The first time the fort was stormed in 1303AD, it was purely for matters of the heart. Alauddin Khilji fell in love with Rani Padmini the moment he heard of her and decided to take Chittor and subsequently Padmini. He did get Chittor but Padmini was nothing more than ashes in a huge jauhar (mass suicide by fire) which left 30,000 women burnt alive by choice.

The second siege came 232 years later in 1535 from Muhammad Shah of Gujarat, and this time it was outright war. Chittor fell again, and 13,000 women and children died in a different kind of jauhar. The fortress was on the brink of being seized by Bahadur Shah and there was no time to arrange for a bonfire. Gunpowder was brought out from the magazines and laid out in excavations in the ground. A tremendous blast took the lives of women and children this time.

The final assault was by Akbar in 1567, and it was fatal for Chittor. The seven gates of Chittor were opened and 8,000 Rajputs rode out in their saffron war robes once again to die at Mughal swords. Tradition repeated itself within the walls of Chittor, and women and children sallied forth into flames. When Akbar entered the fort, it is said that there was not a living soul left inside. After this final sack the backbone of Chittor was broken, and its ruler Rana Udai Singh fled to lay the foundations of Udaipur. Chittor never recovered and the fort was taken over by nature.

Fort Palaces
Rana Kumbha was the one who officially built Chittor, and his palace is the oldest monument within the fort walls. The palace was built from 1433-68 in plastered stone, and the entrance is through Suraj Pol which directly leads into a courtyard. On the right of Suraj Pol is the Darikhana or Sabha (council chamber) behind which lies a Ganesha temple and the zenana (living quarters for women). A massive water reservoir is located towards the left of Suraj Pol. Ruined houses towards the south of the palace may have been used by lesser nobles, or were probably used by palace attendants. Below the central courtyard is a subterranean chamber where Rani Padmini committed jauhar with the rest of the women of Chittor when Alauddin Khilji besieged the fort. But perhaps the most remarkable feature of the palace is its splendid series of canopied balconies. The complex also houses stables for elephant and horses, but is now in ruins.

Other Attractions

Fateh Prakash
Near Kumbha’s palace is Fateh Prakash, the most modern building in Chittor. Built in the early 20th century, the palace was the home for Maharana Fateh Singh, Chittor’s ruler who died in 1930. A part of the building has now been converted into a museum but the rest of it is closed to visitors.

Timings : The museum is open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. except on Fridays.

Kunwar Pade ka Mahal
was the palace of the prince of Chittor, and was built in 1450. Interestingly, this palace incorporates for the first time in Rajput architecture the use of ogee arches. These S-shaped arches later became an essential part of Rajput architecture and were widely used in palaces, step wells and temples. In the prince’s palace can be seen some of the beautiful blue tiles that went into decorating most of the palaces here. Prolific use of the ogee arch can also be seen in Rana Ratan Singh’s palace built from 1527-32. Ratan Singh was Padmini’s husband, and his palace is styled on Rana Kumbha’s royal residence.

Rani Padmini’s Palace
is a compact three storeyed white building, but what is seen today is a 19th century reconstruction of the original. The palace is surrounded by water, and the inevitable chhatris (pavilions) crown its roofs. This was perhaps the forerunner of the concept of jagmahals (palaces surrounded by water), and it was from here that Akbar carried off huge bronze gates and installed them in Agra. Close by is Bhimlat kund, an artificial tank dedicated to the strongest of the Pandava brother, Bhima (see Mahabharata).

Palaces of Jaimal and Patta
The palaces of Jaimal and Patta were the last two buildings to be built in Chittor fort, and calling them palaces is really misleading. Compared to other palaces in Rajasthan, they are small and of not much architectural significance. Both these havelis (houses) are built very frugally, taking into consideration that they were constructed more as simple residences than splendid palaces. Both lie in ruins now, and their facades are minimal and hardly bear any resemblance to the palaces of Rana Kumbha or Padmini.

Towards the south of these two havelies is the three-storeyed tower called Chonda house built in early 15th century, and now in ruins. Chonda was the founder of the Chondawat clan and gave up his throne on the insistence of his father.

Main Gate Ways To Fort
A limestone bridge supported by ten arches across the Gambheri river leads into the fort. Nine of these arches are pointed, and by some mishap one was built as a curve. The road to Chittor is arduous and a kilometer long, with seven imposing gateways forming defensive entrances. Padal Pol the first gate, is where Bagh Singh was cut down in the second siege by Bahadur Shah in 1535.

Here it must be remembered that gateways to a fort in Rajasthan were no diminutive ones – they were massive stone structures with reinforced doors to ward off elephants and even cannon shots. The gates of Chittor are of special architectural interest, for it was here that for the first time that defense surpassed décor. The arches are pointed, and the top of the gates are notched parapets from where archers could shoot at their tormentors.

None other than Emperor Akbar dedicates two of the seven gates to Chittor’s brave defenders. Bhairon Pol was where Jaimal fell by the Emperor’s bullet, and Patta died at Ram Pol, the fort’s main gate which was built in 1459. It is crowned by two little chhatris (pavilions), and the roof is supported by a corbeled arch. Each side of the gate consists of a small hall. On returning to Agra Akbar ordered the construction of statues of the valiant warriors to commemorate their deaths. Cenotaphs for both Jaimal and Patta were also built by Rajputs at each gate. A statue of a Rajput warrior on horseback, lance in hand, is Jaimal’s cenotaph, while another colonnaded cenotaph lies nearby, dedicated to Raghudeva of Mewar.

The eastern wall is entered through Suraj Pol (Sun Gate). Hanuman Pol lies before Ganesh Pol, and then come two gates joined together in a peculiar manner. The upper arch of the Jorla (Joined Gate) is connected to the base of Lakshman Pol, a feature never seen anywhere else in India.

Fort Temples
In the western side of the fort is an ancient Tulja Bhawani temple in honour of goddess Tulja, held sacred by the scribes of Chittor. Adjacent to this temple is an open courtyard, the tope khana (cannon foundry) of yester years where a few old cannons can still be seen.

Naulakha Bhandar- Treasure Store
The Naulakha bhandar (nine lakh treasury) built by Rana Kumbha is a small citadel in itself, and it was here that all the wealth of Chittor was hoarded. The bastion once had lofty walls and towers to guard it, but now lies in ruins. The Naulakha bhandar is also said to have been the residence of Banbir, the usurper.

Shringar Chaori Jain Temple
In northeastern corner there is a small domed temple called the Shringar Chaori with detailed carvings of gods and goddesses on the outside. This richly sculpted Jain temple was built into the fort wall in 1448 in honour of Shantinath, a Jain fordmaker.
The palace of the Ranas, built by Rana Raimal, is a plain edifice with notched battlements, following the style of original Rajput architecture devoid of any Mughal influence. This palace was the home for the very first rulers of Chittor, or that of the Moris from whom Chittor was seized.
Within the courtyard surrounding the palace is another temple, this one for Devji. Rana Sanga had a special affinity for Devji, and on each of his forays outside Chittor to engage the enemy he would first visit the temple. On a victorious return, Sanga would once again pay homage to the deity (see Chittor introduction).

Mira Bai Temple
Two massive temples also lie within the fort. One was built by Rana Kumbha and the other by Mira Bai, the saint-poetess and Krishna’s devotee. The masonry for these temples was brought from the ruins of ancient shrines near Chittor. Rana Kumbha’s Vrij temple (1450AD) is dedicated to Varah, the god with the body of a man and the head of a boar. Near these temples are two kunds or reservoirs, each measuring 125 feet in length, 50 feet across and 50 feet deep. However, they were not meant to store water and were constructed for the wedding of a Chittor princess to a prince of Gagron. They were filled with oil and ghee (clarified butter) which was served out to attendants and guests.
Near Mirabai’s temple is the cenotaph of Mirabai’s guru Shri Rai Das. Inside the cenotaph is a statue depicting five human bodies fused together with one head, signifying that there are no caste differences and even outcasts can reach out to god.

Kallika Mata temple
Bappa Rawal built the Kallika Mata temple sometime during the 8th century for Surya, the Sun god. Alauddin Khilji destroyed it in the first sack of Chittor, but Rana Hammir rebuilt it as a Kali temple in the 14th century. The temple consists of five chambers, all devoid of their original roofs. The walls of this temple are plain but the cornices are decorated with lotus symbols. The inner sanctum’s walls depict the Sun god Surya in nichés surrounded by consorts and angels. The moon god Chandra is also shown in sculptures in the walls which rise up into a flat ceiling supported by quadrangular pillars, also intricately carved and bracketed at the top. The doorframe of the inner sanctum has four ornamental bands with Surya forming the central theme of its carvings. The entire frame is flanked by an elaborate panel in which are carved figures of deities around a main figure of the sun god. The temple still retains the flavour of the Gupta style of architecture, and an inscription within the edifice informs us that it was built by king Manabhanga.

Kumbhashyama temple
The Kumbhashyama temple is similar to the Kallika temple but in is honour of the god Krishna. Simplicity is the main theme, but nichés in the walls are filled with diamonds and carry images of gods and goddesses as well as the eight regents of Chittor. The upper walls are decorated with a frieze of entwined loops. A major part of the temple seems to have been restored, but the inner chamber still retains its originality.
The 16th century Adbhutnath temple demonstrates a style which emerged in the 10^th century. Here, images of gods tend to be differently portrayed than in other temples. Heads are almost circular and the statues’ limbs form a tubular shape, making the images look like crude toys. The main image of Mahesha or Lord Shiva is made of wood and is an unrefined depiction of the Destroyer god. His face is flat and two more adjoining faces are turned forward in an obvious display of the lack of dimension.

Brahma Temple
Rana Kumbha’s Brahma temple is not really that of the Creator of the Universe, and is in honour of Kumbha’s father, Mukul. Apparently Brahma was never worshipped here, and the temple was only named after him since a bust of Mukul stands in the centre of the solitary chamber. Adjoining this temple is Charbagh, a garden of cenotaphs where the ashes of each one of Chittor’s rulers – from Bappa Rawal to Udai Singh II, the founder of Udaipur – are kept.

Mahasati
The Ranas of Chittor were cremated in the Mahasati, a small terrace surrounded by stones marking satis (widows burnt with the bodies of their husbands).

Gaumukh
Beyond the Charbagh is Gaumukh, a perennial fountain formed in the mouth of a `cow’. The `cow’ is actually a cleft in a rock face through which water flows out into a reservoir. Near the Gaumukh is the Rani Bindar tunnel which leads into the subterranean chamber where Rani Padmini committed jauhar during Alauddin Khilji’s siege of Chittor.
Within the same complex is the Sammidheshwara temple in which light enters from four different directions. The temple walls are short and take the form of blind balustrades. Small pillars support the roof on the outside while columns support the dome of the inner chamber. This central chamber is largely open on all sides and its columns meet in arches in the upper reaches.

Towers of Glory
The most imposing monuments in Chittor are the dual towers that stand as a grim reminder of the jaded grandeur of Chittor. Vijaystambha or Victory Tower was erected by Rana Kumbha from 1457-58 after he defeated the combined armies of Malwa and Gujarat. The tower is 122 feet high and its summit spans an area of more than 17 feet. Nine storeys ascend into the sky from the 35 feet broad base on a 42 feet broad platform. Each of the nine storeys have doorways leading into colonnaded balconies. Designed by an architect called Jaita in the Jain revivalist style, the tower is built of quartz and compact limestone abundantly found in Chittor. The colonnaded top storey has a statue of a kanya (young girl) surrounded by gopis (milkmaids) in dancing postures playing various musical instruments. Black marble tablets in this floor contain shlokas (verses) tracing the genealogy of Chittor rulers. However, most of the slabs have been defaced and only one is still in its original condition. The fifth floor contains reliefs of the builders of the tower, and a simple staircase which leads right up to the top connects all the storeys.

Kirtistambha
The secondary tower in Chittor is the huge Kirtistambha (Tower of Fame) originally dedicated to Adinath, the first Jain saint. 75 feet high and 39 feet wide at the base, the Kirtistambha is also richly decorated with Jain motifs. Similar to Vijaystambha, this tower is also built of quartz, is seven storeys high with a chunkier façade. A number of Jain inscriptions can be found within and outside the tower, dating it to 896AD.

Mohair Margi
Mohair Margi is a little hill raised under orders from Akbar during his siege of Chittor in 1567. The Mughal army was engaged to raise a hill as high as the fort walls so that they could fire cannons into Chittor. For this purpose earth was excavated and dumped near the walls. Legend has it that Akbar paid one gold mohur (coin) for each basket of mud since the task meant certain death. Eventually the mound did reach as high as the fort walls and Akbar was able to seize Chittor.